Origin of Embroidery in Afghanistan

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Introduction

Embroidery in Afghanistan is a deeply rooted cultural practice, primarily carried out by women.
The most distinguished form of Afghan embroidery is Khamak, originating from Kandahar.
Khamak is known for its intricate geometric and natural designs, often worked in silk thread on fine cotton or silk fabrics.
Another notable form of Afghan embroidery is Goldozi, which means 'embroidery' in Dari and is often created in communal settings.
Embroidery in Afghanistan is used to decorate a wide range of items, including clothing, household textiles, and even animal trappings.
The tradition of embroidery in Afghanistan reflects the diverse ethnic and cultural influences within the country.

Origin: Khamak embroidery originates from Kandahar, the capital of the Pashtun people.
Designs: It features intricate geometric and natural patterns, often inspired by Islamic art.
Materials: Typically worked in silk thread on fine cotton or silk fabrics.
Technique: The satin stitch is traditionally worked from the reverse side of the material.
Usage: Commonly used to decorate men's shawls, table linens, women's head-coverings, and wedding trousseaus.

Meaning: Goldozi means 'embroidery' in the Dari language.
Tradition: Often made at home and in communal sewing circles.
Usage: Used to adorn wedding dresses, bridal goods, infant sets, and children's clothing.
Market: Highly valued by Western designers and sought after in countries like Spain and Italy.
Economic Impact: Up to 1/5 of the industry is produced by at-home women embroiderers.

Diversity: Afghanistan's embroidery reflects the country's diverse ethnic groups, including Baluchis, Hazaras, Kabulis, Kandaharis, Nuristanis, Pashtuns, Tajiks, Turkmens, and Uzbeks.
Styles: Each group has its own unique styles, materials, stitches, and colors.
Men's Embroidery: Some of the most famous embroidery for men comes from Kandahar, known as Khamak.
Women's Embroidery: Women's clothing tends to be more elaborately and colorfully embroidered.
Comparable Forms: Similar forms of embroidery are found in Herat and among the Nuristanis.

Household Items: Embroidery is used for table cloths, mats, towels, curtains, and more.
Clothing: Both men's and women's clothing are decorated with embroidery, with women's being more elaborate.
Animal Trappings: Decorative blankets for horses are a common use.
Caps: Small skullcaps worn by men, women, and children are often embroidered.
Materials: A range of silk, cotton, and wool yarns are used, along with metallic threads, spangles, sequins, mirrors, and braids.

Ancient Practice: Embroidery has been practiced in Afghanistan for centuries, reflecting the country's central location in Asia.
Cultural Reflection: The designs and materials used in Afghan embroidery mirror the diverse cultural influences in the region.
Men's Involvement: By the end of the 20th century, a significant number of men were also involved in embroidery, usually machine-produced in tailor's workshops.
Traditional Skills: Embroidery skills are often passed down through generations, particularly among women.

Goldozi Project: Funded by USAID, this project aims to increase awareness and market potential for traditional Afghan embroidery.
Training Programs: Initiatives like the Goldozi Certificate Program train women in design, production, and marketing skills.
Economic Participation: Embroidery provides job opportunities for women, helping them become more active participants in the Afghan economy.
Global Market: Afghan embroidery is highly valued in international markets, including France, Italy, and the United States.
Entrepreneurial Skills: Training programs focus on developing entrepreneurial skills among women, enabling them to manage and market their products effectively.